Peki’in Synagogue, and Tupelo

On Larry’s birthday we had a special experience with an amazing woman – Margalit Zinati. Margalit is a member of the ancient Zinati family, that have lived in Peki'in for AGES since the destruction of the Second Temple, that is 2000 years! Margalit, now 94 years old, is known as the "keeper of the Jewish embers" in Peki'in as she is the sole Jew surviving in what is now a Druze community, and she safeguards the ancient Jewish synagogue there.


Peki’in was home to a large Jewish community until 1938. The 1938 events forced community members to abandon their homes in Peki’in and they dispersed throughout the country. The Zinati family also left Peki’in following the events, but contrary to others, they returned to the village after a short while, and Margalit, who never married, has been here ever since, guarding her family legacy and the legacy of the Jewish community of Peki’in. She shares the story of her family and of the Jewish community of Peki’in with the many visitors frequenting her home and the small museum adjacent to it, as well as the synagogue.

 

The synagogue was renovated for the last time 150 years ago. It is one of the oldest synagogues in Israel and according to tradition was established in the days of the Tanna’im (rabbinic authority in the time of the Mishnah). Hewn stones engraved with a Menorah can be seen on both sides of the synagogue walls - according to tradition these stones were brought here from the Temple! The Ark of the synagogue is ancient and contains a centuries old Torah Scroll. The Peki’in synagogue’s ancient door also appears on Israel’s 100 Shekel bill!

 

In the modest museum, visitors can see photos of the Zinati family throughout its generations, photographs of Peki’in Jewish community members, and teacher diaries from the year 1936 with exact registration of children’s names. There are also photographs of Yitzhak Ben Zvi and the people of Peki’in at Rashbi’s Cave in 1920, an old Parochet (ornamental curtain covering the synagogue ark), a Torah Scroll case, and other old findings. The museum also features a photograph from 1937 showing Peki’in’s Jewish Community members, a year before they were forced to abandon Peki’in.

 

But the real star of the show is Margalit herself. She and I (Mindy) really connected, and she sat with me for a long while holding my hands, blessing me and telling stories of her father and family and how important it is for us to keep our Jewish traditions. Admittedly I couldn’t understand all of the words she was saying as at her age her voice is no longer strong, but we laughed together and cried together and Larry and I felt very honored to spend time with her. (See the video below.)

 

After leaving Beit Zinati, Larry and I walked over to the tiny cave where Rabbi Shimon Bar Yohai (Rashbi) and his son were said to hide from the Romans for thirteen years (!) starting in about 148 CE, during which time the Rashbi is said to have written the sacred text of the Kabbalah - the Zohar.  

 

While walking around the village, we were delighted to speak to several local Druse who proudly told us how they and their sons serve in the army, and the privilege of serving our beloved country.

 

By this time we had worked up an appetite, and drove on to Maalot-Tarshiha to a special restaurant and bakery called Tupelo. Tupelo is strictly gluten-free and all of their baked goods are prepared on the premises. There is a large menu to choose from, with many vegan choices, including beautiful desserts. We had two vegetarian pizzas and the lime tart for dessert – yummy. And the service was very friendly and accommodating.

 

We got home tired, but happy 😊.

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